Hills change to steep inclines all the way it’s earth’s rock bare bones. The places where the peaks have been thrust into sky are clear long lines and the fallen boulders make the string of trucks and buses smaller. After crossing into Chile the road is all hairpin turns a giant loop de loop until the Central Valley and Pacific. 

Valparaiso is steep hills and huge port. It feels like a clouded mirror image of San Francisco; grittier and more lively, smaller, brighter colored houses in every street and sleeping dogs lying everywhere. Visited La Sebastiana, Neruda’s house; simple, small, replete and full of light. So many windows,  no wonder his poetry is spacious enough to contain us all.

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